an Afican American woman applying a rich conditioner to her hair.

Basic Hair Conditioner

February 15, 202511 min read
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Ready to create your own luxurious hair conditioner? This easy-to-follow formula is perfect for beginners who want to start making their own hair care products. With simple, nourishing ingredients like BTMS-50, Panthenol, and Argan Oil, this conditioner will hydrate, soften, and add shine to your hair. Whether you have curly, straight, or textured hair, this formula is designed to improve manageability, reduce frizz, and leave your hair feeling silky smooth. Let’s get started on making a conditioner that’s both effective and customizable!

Ingredients for Basic Hair Conditioner

Here’s a breakdown of each ingredient in the formula along with their INCI names. These ingredients are carefully selected to hydrate, nourish, and condition the hair.

  • Distilled Water (INCI: Aqua)
    Water is the foundation of the formula, dissolving and helping to blend other ingredients. It also helps hydrate the hair.

  • Glycerin (INCI: Glycerin)
    Glycerin is a humectant that draws moisture into the hair, keeping it hydrated and soft.

  • BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Butylene Glycol)
    BTMS-50 is a mild emulsifier and conditioning agent that creates a smooth, creamy texture and leaves hair feeling soft and detangled.

  • Cetyl Alcohol (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol)
    Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that acts as an emulsifier and stabilizer. It adds a creamy texture and helps reduce frizz while softening the hair.

  • Argan Oil (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil)
    You can choose any oil or omit the oils. We chose Argan Oil, it is rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants, which help nourish and protect the hair, providing hydration, shine, and strength.

  • Liquid Germall Plus (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)
    Liquid Germall Plus is a broad-spectrum preservative that helps prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms in the conditioner, ensuring safety and longevity.


The Formula

Cosmetic Formulas Basic Hair Conditioner

What You’ll Need

Before you start making your own hair conditioner, make sure you have all the equipment and ingredients ready. Here’s a list of everything you’ll need:

Digital Scale: For precise measurements of each ingredient.
Two Clean, Heat-Safe Beakers or Glass Bowls: To separate your water and oil phases.
Thermometer: To check the temperatures of your phases.
Immersion Blender or Hand Mixer: For emulsifying the oil and water phases together.
Spatula or Spoon: For stirring and scraping the sides of the beakers.
Measuring Spoons or Small Beakers: For smaller ingredient quantities.
Sanitized Storage Bottles or Jars: For storing your finished conditioner.
Heat Source: A stovetop or double boiler to heat your ingredients.


Basic Hair Conditioner Making Process

Creating your own hair conditioner at home is a fun and rewarding process. Follow these easy steps to make your moisturizing conditioner. Remember, precision is key when making formulations like this, so be sure to measure accurately!


Step 1: Prepare Your Ingredients and Set Up

In the First Beaker (Water Phase – Phase A):

  • Place a clean, heat-safe beaker or glass bowl on the scale and press the tare button to reset it to zero.

  • Measure the distilled water, glycerin, and panthenol into the beaker. Tare the scale in between each ingredient for accuracy.

  • Stir gently with a spoon or spatula to mix the glycerin into the water and ensure it's fully dissolved.

  • Tare the scale again and weigh the entire contents of this beaker. Record the weight for later use.

  • Set this beaker aside. You will be heating it shortly.

In the Second Beaker (Oil Phase – Phase B):

  • Take another clean, heat-safe beaker or glass bowl and place it on the scale, taring it to zero.

  • Weigh out the BTMS-50, cetearyl alcohol, and argan oil into the second beaker. Be sure to tare the scale in between each ingredient for accurate measurements.

  • Now, both phases are ready for heating.

Step 2: Heat Phase A and Phase B Separately

  • Heat both phases to 156°F (69°C). You can use a double boiler or microwave to heat the phases. Make sure the solids in the oil phase (like BTMS-50 and cetearyl alcohol) are completely melted.

  • Hold both phases at this temperature for about 20 minutes to ensure the ingredients are properly dissolved and blended.

  • Check temperatures: Use a thermometer to ensure both phases are at the same temperature before mixing. This is important for achieving a smooth emulsion.

Step 3: Blend the Phases Together

  • Once both phases have reached the desired temperature, pour the oil phase (Beaker 2) into the water phase (Beaker 1).

  • Use an immersion blender or hand mixer to blend for about 3-5 minutes. The mixture will emulsify and begin to thicken and turn creamy.

  • Continue blending until the conditioner reaches a smooth and homogenous consistency.

Step 4: Add the Preservative (Cool-Down Phase – Phase C)

  • Once the conditioner has cooled down to around 104°F (40°C), it’s time to add the preservative.

  • Weigh out 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus and mix it into the conditioner, ensuring it’s fully incorporated.

  • Continue to stir occasionally as the conditioner cools further, which will cause it to thicken.

Step 5: Bottle and Store Your Conditioner

  • Once your conditioner has cooled down to room temperature (70°F or 21°C), transfer it into a sanitized bottle or jar.

  • Label your product with the date of creation and ingredients used. This is important for tracking shelf life.

  • Your conditioner is now ready for use! Store it in a cool, dry place, and enjoy the benefits of your homemade, nourishing hair care product.

By following these steps, you'll create a hydrating, smooth, and effective conditioner to pamper your hair. Don't forget to experiment with different ingredients to customize the formula for your specific hair type!


Basic Tips for Beginners Making Hair Conditioner and Formulating Emulsions

When you're just starting with making hair conditioner and emulsions, here are some helpful tips to make the process easier and more effective:


1. Measure Accurately

  • Always use a digital scale for precise measurements. This is especially important in emulsions, where the balance of ingredients can make a huge difference in the outcome.

2. Understand Phases

  • Water Phase: Ingredients like water, glycerin, and panthenol that are water-soluble.

  • Oil Phase: Ingredients like oils, butters, and emulsifiers that are oil-soluble.

  • Cool-Down Phase: Ingredients like preservatives that need to be added after the mixture cools.

3. Use Emulsifiers Properly

  • Emulsifiers, like BTMS-50, are essential for binding the water and oil phases together. Be sure to add them to the oil phase, and heat both phases to the correct temperature (typically around 156°F/69°C) for them to blend properly.

4. Don’t Skip Heating

  • Both your water and oil phases need to be heated to at least 156°F (69°C) to ensure that the emulsifier works effectively. This helps the oil and water phases blend smoothly.

5. Use a Good Blender

  • An immersion blender or hand mixer is your best friend when emulsifying. Blend the two phases for a few minutes until you see the mixture thicken and become creamy.

6. Add Preservatives Correctly

  • Preservatives like Liquid Germall Plus should always be added in the cool-down phase (below 104°F or 40°C) to ensure they stay effective.

7. Experiment with Ingredients

  • Don’t be afraid to try different oils, butters, and emulsifiers. For example, you can switch argan oil for jojoba oil or try different emulsifiers like Lotionpro 165 instead of BTMS-50.

  • If you want extra moisture, consider adding glycerin or hyaluronic acid to the water phase.

8. Keep Track of Your Formulas

  • Keep a detailed record of each batch, including the exact percentages of ingredients, so you can repeat or adjust your formulations later.

9. Test the pH

  • Hair conditioners should typically have a pH between 4.5 and 5.5, so always check the pH of your final product and adjust with a small amount of citric acid or lactic acid if necessary.

10. Be Patient

  • Let your conditioner cool completely before testing. It might thicken up as it cools, and the final texture is best seen at room temperature.


Understanding Ingredient Charges

Cationic (Positive Charge)

  • Examples: BTMS-50, Cetearyl Alcohol

  • How it works: These ingredients bond to your hair, making it smooth and soft. Hair has a natural negative charge, so cationic ingredients help condition it.

  • Why hair likes it: They help reduce frizz and add shine.

Anionic (Negative Charge)

  • Examples: Glyceryl Stearate

  • How it works: These ingredients help mix oils and water together, making them useful for emulsifying (blending) in products. They can also cleanse the hair but might be drying if overused.

Non-Ionic (Neutral Charge)

  • Examples: Glycerin

  • How it works: These ingredients help hydrate and moisturize your hair without affecting the balance of other ingredients.


Our Hair Likes Cationic Ingredients

Cationic ingredients, like BTMS-50, bond well with the negatively charged hair, making it smoother and shinier. They’re the key to conditioning and adding softness to your hair!


Modifying Your Hair Conditioner Formula by Hair Type

When formulating hair conditioners, it’s important to tailor the ingredients to suit different hair types. Each hair type has unique needs, so adjusting your formula can make a significant difference in how effective the product is. Here’s how you can modify your basic conditioner formula based on different hair types:


For Dry Hair

What to Add:

  • More Emollients: Increase the percentage of moisturizing oils like Argan Oil, Coconut Oil, or Avocado Oil. These oils penetrate the hair shaft, adding moisture and preventing dryness.

  • Butters: Adding a small percentage of Shea Butter or Mango Butter can boost hydration and provide extra nourishment.

What to Avoid:

  • Avoid too much of ingredients that may strip moisture, such as harsh cleansers or too much Glyceryl Stearate in the formula.


For Oily Hair

What to Add:

  • Light Oils: Use lighter oils like Jojoba Oil or Grapeseed Oil instead of heavier oils to prevent buildup.

  • Astringents: Consider adding Witch Hazel or Tea Tree Oil in small amounts to control oil production without over-drying.

What to Avoid:

  • Limit rich ingredients like Shea Butter or too much Cetearyl Alcohol, as they can weigh down the hair.


For Fine Hair

What to Add:

  • Volumizing Ingredients: Consider adding a small amount of Hydrolyzed Silk Protein or Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein to strengthen and add volume without weighing the hair down.

  • Lightweight Moisturizers: Use Glycerin and Panthenol (Vitamin B5) for lightweight hydration that won’t weigh hair down.

What to Avoid:

  • Be careful not to overdo heavy oils or butters like Coconut Oil or Shea Butter, which may leave fine hair feeling limp.


For Curly or Coarse Hair

What to Add:

  • Moisturizing Oils and Butters: Increase the percentage of Shea Butter, Mango Butter, or Castor Oil to provide deep moisture and taming power.

  • Humectants: Add Hyaluronic Acid or Glycerin to attract moisture and keep curls defined and hydrated.

What to Avoid:

  • Avoid too much silicone-based ingredients as they can make curls feel heavy and greasy.


For Color-Treated Hair

What to Add:

  • Proteins: To restore strength, add Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Keratin, or Rice Protein to help protect and repair the hair.

  • Moisturizing Ingredients: Use hydrating oils like Argan Oil and Olive Oil to lock in moisture and prevent damage from coloring.

What to Avoid:

  • Limit the use of strong cleansing agents or harsh ingredients that may strip the hair of its color.


General Modifications for All Hair Types

  • pH Balance: Ensure the final pH of the conditioner is between 4.5 to 5.5 to maintain the natural acidity of the scalp and hair.

  • Fragrance: Add your choice of essential oils or fragrance oils to create a pleasant scent. Choose oils that complement hair care, like Lavender or Peppermint.

  • Add-Ins: If you’d like to enhance the formula with a special treatment (like Anti-Frizz or Scalp Care), you can always include active ingredients like Aloe Vera or Peppermint Oil.


By making these adjustments, you can customize the basic hair conditioner formula to suit any hair type, creating a personalized product that provides the care and benefits needed for each individual’s hair.Creating your own hair conditioner and emulsions can be a fun and rewarding experience, especially when you understand the basics of formulation. By carefully measuring your ingredients, understanding the importance of the different phases, and using the right emulsifiers, you’ll be able to craft effective, high-quality products. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different ingredients to find the perfect formula for your hair care needs. With a little practice, you’ll soon be able to create conditioners that nourish, hydrate, and leave your hair feeling soft and healthy. Happy formulating!


Disclaimer:
We are not responsible for the products you create using our supplies. You alone are responsible for testing your products and formulas to ensure compatibility, safety, and proper use. Please conduct your own research and patch testing before distribution or sale.

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